CHOICE PLATTER
It takes a few moments wading in these transparent waters for the body to become more aware of the rock ledge upon which it stands. Moving to and fro, we at first simply anchor our relative motion on the massive shelves of conglomerate that we stand upon. Still, we discover ourselves constantly moving upon the landing’s surface. But underneath that movement, the formation presents not only a functional viewing platform, it presents— like so many places in the Gunks— a presence of its own accord; but only with the right viewing angle or attitude. The style offered by this terraced slab never entirely extricates itself from its neglected role as solid grounding. It wraps around a bend in the carriageway with a staggered sweep of ledges— until one gazes up to the carriage trail that it supports. It is then that the platform amasses its native weight and bearing. In this case, it bears the entire sweeping carriageway with its binary choice laid out starkly from this perspective. Either we return on the path of our arrival to the right, or we continue round the bend to the left, toward the Hamilton Point Carriageway below. The choice lies physical before us, as if on a giant platter. We step up and choose the Hamilton Point Carriageway to the left because it will loop us back toward Lake Minnewaska from a different route.
Immediately following the Castle Point vista, a series of snaking bends rapidly conforms the carriage trail to the descending terrain. To our left, prior to snaking completely back in our descent, an expansive surface of white rock awaits just beyond the mountain laurel, blueberry bushes, and dwarf pines that line the carriage road. Here, adjacent to Battlement Terrace, the interest remains primarily attached to the surface. Although it offers a wide set of views that sweep from Sam’s Point to the Catskill Mountains, it is the broad conglomerate field that retains most of the interest. To the neglect of the handsome rock that fills most of our visual field, with our chin raised we can see a narrow band of horizon. Here, unlike Castle Point ledge, the field of rock at our feet entices all wandering and movement, not the promise of a greater vantage. From a central location on the broad rock surface we are led by a prominent duct-like gap in the rock toward a select viewing edge. It is there that the rock unveils a hidden, almost internal glimpse of the carriage road snaking below us, seemingly buried in a secret chamber accessed from the jagged edge. Just ahead, the carriage road turns back on itself and winds below this ledge, directly underneath the half-walled chamber we look down from. White blocks boldly line the crushed bluestone road as it courses through the fresh green vegetation of our late spring trek. Birch trunks lyrically paint the sinuous nature of the trail’s forested edge in sparse, but deliberative white strokes. Once again we discover that it is a convergence of contrasts that elicits the aesthetic. The expansive white field and the block-lined carriageway project boldness and structure, but wisps of white edging have been added to balance the large masses with a graceful sweep just to the side of the wide bluestone trail. The abutment of a dense green forest against the clean-drafted curves of the carriageway lined with cubical forms requires these spontaneous strokes to introduce delicacy into the strict and massive organization of the scene. All of this confluence of organized accident is confirmed as we head up to the carriage road to make the hairpin turn and descend below the mass that we just ranged upon. From below, we are offered additional cross-sectional views of the white rock’s layered composition.
As described in Philosopher’s Stone, these sediments consist of a dramatic 420 million year old creation story that is written in the conglomerate layers. Passing beyond the sediments and the last reaches of the extended mass, the feeling transforms into that of departing an ancient city of stone that has been recently excavated— and indeed, geologically it has. Soon after we pass the ancient site, an important delegation of carriage trails seems to engage in dialogue. We are duly informed of our road back to the left via the Hamilton Point Carriageway, just beyond another carriage road that sweeps down to Lake Awosting from our right.
HAMILTON POINT
The Hamilton Point Carriageway is as handsome in this region as the Castle Point Carriageway was just above it. The old roads, in fact, merge insignificantly. But contrary to the sworn testimony of the Castle Point ledge, the Hamilton Point outcrop is closer than it had appeared when set upon from above. In general, the Gunks enjoy playing such illusory games with distance— postponing arrival to most destinations and making others appear more distant than is truly the case. Our arrival to Hamilton Point discloses another peculiarity. At first sight the large stone exposure with its winding carriage road bisecting it appears not to be as massive as that anticipated from Castle Point. This assessment too, is relative. Further investigation discloses an impressive outcrop with much of the size distributed in the vertical root of the mass. Here, unlike Castle Point, many of the fractured surfaces longingly desire to be sent aloft so as to drift slowly into the horizon. They remain, however, securely tethered to the mother mass. A large debris field of sunken masses provides warning for those who did not take heed. We’ve arrived at a highly fractured little harbor indeed! Approaching from the Castle Point side, Hamilton Point has the feel of an old sea faring cluster— a population of fractured conglomerate surfaces jostled about like tiny boats amassed in congestion from harbor-funneled waves. As was the case upon Castle Point, the horizon flows in seamlessly here, but testament still resounds of an earlier sea once encased in a great sheet of ice. “I will make you fissures amongst men” said the Great Glacier. And indeed, here we stand amongst impressive broken masses of exposed conglomerate. The Hamilton Point Carriageway bends directly through the great columned mass right to the very edge. Horizon and carriageway meet as the sweeping conglomerate bed floats the road directly into the sky by means of a thrilling curve. There is a sense of flight that is undeniably present as the carriageway edges around the apex. The experience is weightier than imagination, however, for it bears the infinite mass of a rock grounding. Unlike that at Castle Point, however, the feeling of extending into the horizon does not come from lending our vision outward. Instead, the beautiful conglomerate slabs that constitute the carriageway sweep us along with it, exposed to the atmosphere as we round the bend. From a different vantage the floating carriageway is broken. Looking from below, the sky-bound bend is revealed as merely the flattened top of huge layered columns rising from bedrock roots. The columns reveal their sedimentation again, but still they rise strong as individual masses. Together in stacked profile they lean back in reverence to an intimate sky, but they remain proud, individual, as Occidental root stuff. One of the lower stacks near the tree line is topped with a round, polished surface. At the center of the round platform a single elongated and tapered pyramidal block sits patient, uncannily like an ancient sundial— the chance fracturing and placement symbolizing the bold presence of Time. Unlike Castle Point, Hamilton Point demonstrates an asymmetry between its approach from Castle Point and its approach at the near terminus of the Hamilton Point Carriageway from Lake Minnewaska. Its profile from Castle Point is majestic and welcoming as it slants in a gesture of open invitation. Once explored and rounded, however, Hamilton Point rapidly disengages from its carriageway with complete disinterest—remaining orientated exclusively to the transparent sky. The road immediately wraps itself in a play of speckled light and shadow amongst a mixed scrub and pine forest of thinly spaced trees. Shadows quickly close in upon the trail with welcome relief, but it is not a change in temperature that brings a renewed air; it is simply the unexpected nature of the abrupt transition, and recognition of the trajectory back home. The descent is gentle and consistent. A slow re-coupling with the sister ridge that we set off with from Lake Minnewaska occurs gradually. Gertrude’s Nose lies in the distance, displaying no sense of the silent magic it harbors for those who wander its surface. At first, the intervening Palmaghatt Ravine wedges the divergent ridges with a textured treetop carpet running longitudinally in a mound. Later, as the funneling gets more pronounced, it discreetly rises and then dips below awareness to assist a gradual heightening of the converging ridge lines by virtue of its negative presence. The Hamilton Point Carriageway runs parallel to and directly beneath the Castle Point Carriageway on the west side of the ravine. Although the views are similar to those from the Castle Point Carriageway that we were on earlier, the forest is cooler upon Hamilton Point Carriageway— with a greater diversity than the ridge top pitch pine forests lining Castle Point Carriageway.